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A FOCUS ON... Valderiz

02/02/2022
The Ribero del Duero is an unlikely candidate for premium wine making. The weather is extreme here: summers are very dry and very hot, and winters very cold. The terrain is rocky, altitudes are high (most of the regions vineyards are at the very highest part of the Meseta Central, some over 850m above sea level), the area is cut off from the sea by a ring of mountains... so far, so difficult. But winemakers do seem to thrive in harsh conditions where other agriculture could not - and turn those conditions to their advantage.

The afore-mentioned altitudes bring with them chilly nights, and this tempers the blistering days meaning that grapes can retain their fresh acidity and fruit flavours rather than baking in the sun. It's a place where you can find some of the purest expressions of Tempanillo (or Tinta del Pais as it is known in the area.) Tempranillo is Spain's flagship grape, and while it is perhaps best known as a key component of red blends in Rioja, it is usually made as a single varietal in the best wines from Ribero del Duero - a deep and dark high tannin wine with plenty of red and black fruit and a spicy texture.

Valderiz is one of 300 wineries in the area, and within just 60 hectares of vineyards they manage to farm 35 separate plots on different soil types. Once again turning the climatic factors to their benefit, they are among the organic pioneers in the area. Dry weather makes organic farming relatively easy - in comparison to other winemaking areas! - and they pride themselves on using no herbicides, pesticides and fertilisers, in fact even going so far as to move in the direction of biodynamic farming. If you visit the vineyards you will notice the 'goblet' style vines, pruned in bushes low to the ground to protect the fruit and to retain sufficient moisture in hot summer conditions.

Their winemaking is gentle, natural and meticulous. They allow the fruit to speak for itself. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel, and they allow the natural yeasts found on the grapes to spontaneously ferment rather than adding anything to the mix. In accordance with Spanish wine laws - Ribera del Duero has some of the tightest restrictions in the country - the wine is aged in a mix of oak barrels (French and American, new and old) to soften the high levels of tannin and add complementary sweet spice to the fruit.

The resulting wines are quite simply fabulous. We stock their 2015 Valderhermosco Crianza - an enjoyable mouthful of deep red and black fruit, with sweet spice and liquorice. The oak ageing as outlined above (red Crianza wines must spend a minimum of a year in barrel with a total ageing period of 24 months) is perfectly integrated with the fruit and the finish is warm and generous. It also has some savoury and dried fruit notes to add to the complexity. Be warned though - those sunny days mean that this wine has a hefty 15% alcohol!

Delicious to drink now - but you could hold it should you choose to put it away for a while.

Our Spanish Wine Dinner is fully booked - but you can still enjoy this wine at home. It's very friendly, and its savoury qualities mean that it will pair well with a whole range of foods; from the traditional Spanish cured meats and grilled vegetables to barbeque, Italian tomato-based dishes, even Mexican... If you enjoy a Californian Cabernet, then this is one for you.

Why not buy a couple of bottles and let us know how you get on!

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