THE WORLD OF WINE: England!
03/04/2024
In the shadow of the traditional wine powerhouses of France, Italy, and Spain, a quiet revolution has been bubbling up in England's bucolic countryside. The English wine industry, once dismissed as a mere curiosity, the preserve of hobbyists with vats in their bathtubs, is now making serious waves on the global stage. At the forefront of this movement are the now well-known vineyards like Nyetimber and Chapel Down - as well as Brompton favourites Nutbourne Vineyards and Swanaford. Nutbourne is nestled in the picturesque Sussex countryside, where it enjoys the shelter of the South Downs, helping to create a microclimate perfect for grape cultivation. Swanaford, located in the rolling hills of Devon, benefits from proximity to both the rugged Dartmoor National Park and the English Channel, contributing to its unique terroir.
Now, sitting inside in London in April 2024 as rain pours outside, one might not immediately associate England with ideal grape-growing conditions, but the country's climate and geography have proven to be surprisingly suitable for viticulture. The southern regions, including Sussex and Devon, benefit from a temperate maritime climate moderated by the warming influence of the Gulf Stream. When everything goes well, this combination provides mild winters, warm summers, and ample sunshine – conditions that grapes adore.
Of course, when it goes badly… too much of the aforementioned rain and too little sunlight doesn’t just result in glum summer holidays - it can result in extremely low yields. A successful crop is not something that can be relied upon year in year out... at least not yet (more on this later.)
Most wine lovers and geographers will be aware that the south-east of England and Champagne have much in common in terms of weather as well as the fact they lie on the same chalk seam. At one time they were joined, and it is fitting that the most successful forays into English wine so far have been in the sparkling category.
The classic Champagne grapes like Chardonnay and Pinot Noir have been embraced for the production of these sparkling wines. Nutbourne and Swanaford are both renowned for their sparkling wines, and they follow traditional Champagne methods, including hand-harvesting and bottle fermentation, to produce gems that rival their French counterparts.
But it’s not all bubbles. We also grow lesser-known varieties such as Bacchus (sometimes referred to as the ‘English Sauvignon Blanc’ and frequently described as having the particularly English tasting descriptor of ‘hedgerows’) and Seyval Blanc. This experimentation with diverse varietals allows for the production of a wide spectrum of wines, ranging from the crisp sparkling whites that made the reputation of the country as far as elegant still reds. Both Swanaford and Nutbourne have a variety of sparkling and still wines available that demonstrate this experimentation and versatility.
The roots of English winemaking stretch back centuries, but it's only in recent decades that the industry has truly come into its own; and as climate change alters growing conditions around the world, England's wine industry stands poised to continue to benefit. Which isn’t to say that we’re happy about climate change – but it’s good to try and find a bright side of a dark cloud? Warmer temperatures and longer growing seasons in the UK could further enhance grape ripening, which will lead to more reliability of a decent harvest and even higher-quality wines in the years to come. With increasing recognition and demand for English wine worldwide, vineyards like Nutbourne and Swanaford are well-positioned to thrive in this evolving landscape.
However, they’re just two of our top tips out of a multitude of talented wineries out there on our (relative) doorstep. We all know about shopping and eating locally and now we can drink locally. Many English wineries are also open for visitors, meaning you don’t need to get the Eurostar to indulge in a bit of wine tourism this summer. It's an exciting time for English wine. There’s plenty out there to explore already and more to discover on the horizon.
